I’ve lived in Missoula, Montana, for three years. My father returned to New Jersey explains this to pals as although I’ve moved to Mongolia, or joined a cloistered religious order: “Katie lives in Mon-Utah-na now.” At my grandmother’s funeral, a friend of a relative smiled thinly and requested how I turned into liking Minneapolis. I without problems forgive them, due to the fact till I moved out West, its geography seemed to me like printer-paper states spined with mountains.
Living in a country with one federal Representative, I better apprehend its residents’ indifference in the direction of coastal interlopers. Tourism dollars are welcome, and of the route, a few Montanans have household and friends past the omitted Mountain Time Zone. But the critiques of those citizens in relation to our meals, our lodges, our lack of major sports activities groups? I assume small Western towns probable invented the idea of 0 fucks given.
Yet primary food and travel courses insist on discovering small cities in fly-over united states, allotting extensive-eyed generalities and again-surpassed compliments in the same measure. The brand new example becomes a Food & Wine manual to Knoxville, Tennessee, headquarters of Scripps Network, domestic to the University Of Tennessee, a metropolis with a populace of 187,000. Though it becomes a high-quality article, the writer’s marvel at finding such cosmopolitan pride—a great croissant!—on this peeling-paint backwater didn’t go unchecked. The creator doesn’t only communicate for himself, but for locals themselves: “Really, whilst you observe the manner the metropolis has a tendency to sprawl far from itself—quite some distance, certainly, for a area wherein actual property doesn’t value all those tons—it would seem that Knoxville has now not usually been all that a whole lot in love with Knoxville, so why are the rest of us imagined to care?” Those residents responded, extensively through a measured rebuttal from the Knoxville News-Sentinel. The widespread tone: an unimpressed thanks-but-no-thank you.
The Knoxville debacle doesn’t prove site visitors can’t write approximately small towns; they can. But parachute journalism is fraught, and too regularly mines simplest the floor cliches, or tries to speak for a populace it doesn’t belong to. The purpose of travel writing is to demonstrate and remove darkness from. It needs to do higher than golly-gee exclamations that there may be worthwhile food to be observed outside of New York, L.A., San Francisco, and smaller towns absorbed onto that listing—Portland, Charleston, Asheville—due to the fact their awesome food scenes tag-crew with savvy convention and visitors bureaus.
I winced at instances, analyzing the Food & Wine piece, as its writer opens with this evaluate of Tennessee geography: “Driving alongside North Central Street in Knoxville, away from the heart of Tennessee’s third-biggest town, reassurances that you’ll finally end up someplace right are few and far among; the further you go, the less glamorous your surroundings, no longer that there have been tons to write domestic approximately inside the first vicinity.”
Where is the self-consciousness? I experience under-certified to generalize about Missoula, not to mention a town I’ve spent per week in. Humility, recognize, and curiosity seems to be the most vital tools for this kind of endeavor. Respect manner letting a place tell its personal tale, no longer grafting one on to it. It method letting locals talk. If I visit a place for four days, I’ll possibly best come away with a list of restaurants and bars I liked, not a grand vision of a town and in which it’s “going.” And isn’t that guide sufficient? Tell readers in which to get a great cup of coffee, wherein to have dinner, and where to discover the first-rate beer—that’s all maximum of us need to understand besides. It’s feasible to write a tidy journey guide and usually depart cultural anthropology untouched.
Writer Julia Kramer does it properly in her Bon Appetit piece approximately Pittsburgh’s restaurant scene. Another creator ought to take this inside the hackneyed path of Springsteen-esque rusting metallic, but she states her thesis plainly: “The City of Bridges is within the throes of a complete-on nose-to-tail, barrel-elderly, small-plates culinary renaissance. And if you didn’t comprehend it, yinz (that’s “you all” in Pittsburghese) probably don’t realize absolutely everyone from there.”
Probably you don’t know everybody from there. It’s a disregarded however critical step for touring writers: ask a neighborhood. Run assumptions by the neighborhood reporters, through the cooks, with the aid of the regulars at the bars and sandwich stores. What are their experiences? Do your conclusions match their observations?
Then there’s the question of which eating places, coffee shops, and so on. Even incorporate that manual, or which chefs even get interviewed. What a few touring writers take as evidence of culinary benefit—a list of natural wines, a coffee truck whose area is revealed thru Instagram, small plates—are simply familiar signposts to traffic from a larger town. Perhaps that displays the demands of a guide’s target market. I individually didn’t come all the way to Knoxville, Las Cruces, or Boise simply to consume in a Brooklyn facsimile.
There is a way to reward small towns for his or her culinary achievements, and it’s initially an assumption they have them. Then, the wonder, the invention, the instant of revelation isn’t characterized by the mere truth of delicious meals’ existence, but through its nuances. We in no way discover what made that Knoxville croissant exquisite, in truth. We’re just confident it was excellent.